Учебно-методическое пособие для студентов специальности «Дизайн»
жүктеу/скачать 0,79 Mb. Pdf көрінісі
|
Sugonyako
- Бұл бет үшін навигация:
- Modern fashion design and designers
| Post-War fashion
The fashion houses closed during occupation of Paris during World War II, and several designers including Mainbocher permanently relocated to New York. Paris recovered its primacy in the post-war era with Dior’s New Look, but Paris was never the sole arbiter of trends again. By the early 1960s, celebrities were becoming the new Fashion icons, even though they in turn wore designs from the couturiers of the day: influen- tial “partnerships” of celebrity and high-fashion designer included Audrey Hepburn and Givenchy, and Jackie Kennedy, Oleg Cassini. The rise of British fashion in the mid-sixties and designers such as Mary Quant and Betsey Johnson signalled the end of French dominance. Taking their cue from street fashion, these designers catered to a younger consumer and of- fered retailers a new source of inspiration. Vivienne Westwood’s street- inspired styles “created” the image which is now generally considered as Punk. Later, New York designers including Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren raised American sportswear to the level of high fashion. The trend dictation of the old couture houses was over. Modern fashion design and designers Modern fashion design is roughly divided into two categories, haute cou- ture, and ready-to-wear. A designer’s haute-couture collection is meant exclu- sively for private customers and is custom sized, cut and sewn. To qualify as an official “haute couture” house, a designer or company must belong to the Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture, a Paris-based body of designers gov- erned by the French Department of Industry that includes American, Italian, Japanese, and other designers as well. A haute couture house must show col- lections twice yearly with at least 35 separate outfits in each show. It is often shown on the catwalk and in private salons. Ready-to-wear collections are not custom made. They are standard sized which makes them more suitable for larger productions. Ready-to-wear collec- tions can also be divided into designers/createur collections and Confection collections. Designer/createur collections have a high quality, a superb finish and a unique cut and design. These collections are the most trendsetting com- pared to Haute Couture and Confection. Designer/createurs ready to wear col- 48 lections contain often concept items that represent a certain philosophy or the- ory. These items are not so much created for sales but just to make a state- ment. The designer’s ready-to-wear collection is also presented on the interna- tional catwalks by people who do fashion modeling. Confection collections are the ones we see most commonly in our shops. These collections are designed by stylists. The brands that produce these col- lections aim only for a mass public and are in general not searching for new grammar for the language or a new point of view on/of fashion. Although many modern fashion designers work in a “traditional” way – making clothes that are fancy and expensive, but still based on stan- dard/traditional construction and design concepts – some designers have bro- ken these “rules” over the years. These include some now-deceased designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli, who worked in the thirties, forties, and fifties; Japa- nese designers Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garcons, and Clarence Davis from the early eighties to the present; and designers from the mid-nineties on- ward. An example of a modern-day rule-breaker is Martin Margiela. These de- signers approach clothing, Fashion and lifestyle from new angles and explore also the boundaries of Fashion itself in order to create new concepts and views for fashion design. Their collections are not only restricted to garments (ready to wear as well as couture) and other fashion-related products, but also contain work in other media. The works of this breed of designers can also be placed in a certain Art movement. Most fashion designers attend an Academie of fine arts. Fashion design courses are considered applied arts just like graphic design and interior design. The types of fashion designer – stylist versus designer – are often con- fused. A stylist inspires his/her designs on existing things, trends and design- ers collections. A designer starts from scratch; he/she develops a unique con- cept and translates this into garment collections, other lifestyle related prod- ucts or a statement in various other types of media. Some designers approach their work just as a fine arts painter or sculptor. Inspiration for fashion designers comes from a wide range of things and cannot be pinpointed exactly. However, just like all artists, they tend to keep an eye on things going on world-wide to inspire themselves towards making their future clothes lines. Most fashion designers are trained as pattern makers and modeleurs. A typical design team is made up of one or more: designer(s), pattern maker(s) /modeleur(s), sample maker(s), buyer(s) and salesman (men). For presenta- tions and catwalk shows the help of hair dressers, make-up artists, photogra- phers, modeling agencies, the model and other support companies/professions is called upon. 49 As fashion became more and more a large business, designers also began to license products (for example, perfume and bags). жүктеу/скачать 0,79 Mb. Достарыңызбен бөлісу:
|