МҰНайшы маусым 2013 3 Dear readers and colleagues!

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Military Service

Military rank - major, served in the 

MIA and NSC 


Маусым 2013


- Yuri Fyodorovich, they say 

that mountaineering is neither a 

profession nor a hobby, but a state of 

soul. What first got you interested in 

climbing mountains?

- From one hand you could say it was an 

accident. But on the other hand, my family 

has always had an affection to mountains. 

In 1935, my uncle took part in the first mass 

ascent of Peak Komsomol, and in 1939, my 

parents ascended it as well. The first time I 

went up into the mountains was with my 

friends when I was in 9


grade, and while 

being in the Large Almaty gorge we made 

a note promising to become mountaineers. 

That’s how it all started. Actually, of the 13 

children on that day, one became a real 

mountaineer. It was me. A little bit later I 

got a copy of the book Tiger of the Snows 

by the first person to climb the Everest 

Tenzing Norgay. And in 1960, I started 

going up into the mountains to ski, and 

I haven’t been able to imagine life since 

without them. When I went to college, 

I joined the mountaineering group, and 

the trainer there happened to be Sarym 

Kuderin, my neighbour. His mother was 

one of my first teachers. That’s when I 

knew it was my fate to choose a sporting 


Mountaineering is a unique sport. First 

of all, it is very private. Football, tennis, 

wrestling and others are spectacular as 

they have stadiums and fans. We go up 

into the mountains and nobody sees us. 

However, the most important thing in 

mountaineering is that you are responsible 

for your own safety.

- Every sportsperson’s dream 

is to win Olympic gold and every 

mountaineer’s dream is to climb 

the Everest. Despite the fact that 

roughly 200 people have died trying 

to climb the mountain, every year 

many people still apply to climb it. 

You were one of the lucky ones who 

reached the summit. Can you let us 

know a little about your ascent on 

the Chomolungma and what, in your 

opinion, is its   attractiveness?

- People have been trying to conquer 

the Everest for more than 90 years already. 

Between the first ascent to the peak on 29 

May 1953 and 1982, approximately 111 

people managed to reach the top of the 

world. Six of them actually made it twice. 

In other words, between 1953 and 1982 

(including our expedition) on average 

no more than 4 people made it to the top 

per year. This was the triumph of the first 

mountaineering teams. Today, that figure 

is about 130-140 people a year, and the 

number of people who have reached the 

peak has already exceeded 4,100.

The mountain hasn’t become easier and 

people haven’t become stronger. They 

have gained a lot of experience based 

on attempts and errors. The mystery and 

obscurity of the mountain have been 

unveiled for an average climber. Today’s 

equipment and clothing allow a far greater 

level of safety and more people to reach 

the summit.

There are a lot of routes up to the 

Everest, and I would like to stress the fact 

that the route our expedition took was one 

of the most difficult. The USSR team made 

its unprecedented ascent along the centre 

of the south-west wall, putting us on the 

map and declaring the victory to the world. 

Since we made the summit in 1982, nobody 

has used that route. Mountaineers prefer 

the prepared, easier routes, where safety 

is aided with the help of Sherpas (editor - 

Nepalese mountaineers and guides).

Preparation for the 1982 Himalayan 

expedition was tough - the selection 

process was rigorous, the physical training 

gruelling and medical examination quite 

serious. Our ascent to the peak started 

with us setting up camps and hanging 

wall climbing ropes. I can remember every 

detail of our climb. It’s as if it was yesterday.

…And then the long-awaited 4 May came 

along. We had been setting up camps for 

more than 1.5 months and then it was time 

to start the ascent. Moskaltsov (editor - one 

of the participants of the four-people-team 

of those Everest climbers) and I left base 

camp to start climbing, while Khomutov 

and Puchkov were to follow the next day. 

After entering the Khumbu glacier we 

climbed in silence, which we decided was 

our rule until we pass the most difficult 

areas. I remember we reached a place 

where they usually put on grapplers (editor 

– metal boot attachments used to move 

along ice), but I suggested not bothering 

for the time being, and climbing higher, 

taking them with us. In 30 minutes time 

Reaching the top is everybody’s dream. Everyone has their own peak - some of us want 

a career, some of us want to be famous, and others want to be the best mum or wife in 

the world. Today, we would like to introduce a very interesting person - Yuri Fyodorovich 

Golodov - who, in 1982, as part of the first Soviet Himalayan expedition, reached the 

highest point on earth - Everest.



Маусым 2013      


we reached the first lace, and after putting 

on the grapplers and starting to climb 

we heard a loud noise and saw a massive 

avalanche coming down the mountain 

face. A huge block of ice had broken off and 

hit the exact place where we should have 

been putting on the grapplers! We missed 

a terrible accident by minutes. We could 

have been under those blocks of ice. So, 

we were carrying on and Alexey falls into 

an ice crack, slips over, loses his balance 

and starts to fall. This was where my many 

years of mountaineering experience came 

in, and I pulled him out of the crevice. I 

realised we had lost our only chance to 

conquer the Everest. So I called base camp 

by radio and called out the medical team to 

bring Alexey down. That was when I heard 

the head of the team say that tomorrow we 

would be trying again, but with a different 


On the morning of 5 May, Khomutov, 

Puchkov and I leave base camp for the 

Chomolungma. Luckily we missed the 

dangerous Khumbu glacier, camps I and II. 

The weather turned, and during the second 

half of the day it began to snow. However, 

our desire to reach the top overcame 

the bad Himalayan weather, as we were 

aiming to reach the top on Victory Day - 9 

May. Meanwhile, the weather was getting 

worse and worse, reducing our chances 

of reaching the top. On the evening of 7 

May, we reached camp III, intending to 

reach camp V the next day, without resting 

at camp IV. That was our only chance of 

reaching the summit on 9 May, but we had 

to cover two days’ distance in one day.

The weather had become so bad that 

we were told to descend. But we had our 

goal in our sights, and we had already gone 

through so much, so we couldn’t in being 

literally a few metres from the end, to turn 

round and go down. In that situation, 

ascents were even more hazardous - every 

other group had a safety net with the 

other groups around, but because of the 

bad weather, we were alone. We reported 

to the head of our team down there and 

received the response “you decide”. So, 

without staying at camp IV, we climbed 

further and by 23.30 had reached camp 

V. We stayed the night, trying to sleep, but 

couldn’t as we were continuously thinking 

about how to best stay safe and what our 

best options were.

Early on 9 May, we left the final camp, 

and with our drops of strength, started to 

head for the summit. By 11:30 local time, 

we had reached the summit! …We had gone 

through so much for those 40 minutes on 

the Everest, and I personally had trained 

20 years in the 4,000 and 5,000 m Zailii 

Alatau range, the harsh Khan-Tengri and 

the 7,000 m Pamir for that victory!

- You had reached the summit. 

What were your feelings?

- Interestingly, people reaching the 

summit, don’t tend to feel that elated. 

There is the nagging thought, which all 

mountaineers have, that getting to the 

top is only half of the job. You still have 

to get down. Statistically, more than 50% 

of all accidents happen on the descent as 

people relax; and that’s when tragedies 


- Do mountaineers have any 

superstitions or rituals they follow 

before making an ascent?

- We never say “the last day”. 

Mountaineers tend to have their lucky 

charms or items. I had a checked shirt 

that I wore until it fell to pieces and which 

became master of sports of alpinism. It 

didn’t make it to Everest (laughs).

- You have done a lot of climbs. 

What has been the most memorable? 

What is in general the most difficult 

at reaching the summit?

- I have made it to the top of 25 peaks 

over 7,000 m, but about 600 climbs in 

total are under my belt. Sometimes, we 

even made two ascents in one day when 

we were tackling 3,500 or 4,000 m peaks. 

These were made during training sessions 

for climbers, soldiers, geologists or on 

topographic expeditions.

Apart from Everest, I remember my 

ascent in 1969 of the south-west Khan-

Yuri Fyodorovich Golodov

Born in 1945 in Przhevalsk (Kyrgyzstan). Graduated from the Kirov Kazakh State 

University with a degree in biology and ichthyology.

He started mountaineering in 1962 as part of the mountaineering group at the 

Kazakh State University. From 1970, he was a part of the Turkestan Military 

Division and the Army’s Central Sport Club sports teams. From 1981, he was an 

instructor at the Pamir and Tyan-Shan mountain camps, from 1983 - a trainer 

and national judge in mountaineering and rock climbing. He has made dozens 

of ascents on 5


 and 6


 category peaks, often as a team leader. He has made 25 

ascents on peaks over 7,000 m, including Communism Peak - 6 times, Lenin Peak 

- 13 times, Victory Peak, Khan Tengri peak and E.Korzhenevskiy peak - 2 times. 

He has participated in joint Soviet-US ascents on Victory Peak in 1985 and Mount 

McKinley (Alaska) in 1986. He is a five times winner of the USSR mountaineering 


He was a part of the first Soviet Himalayan expedition, reaching the summit of 

Everest with V.Khomutov and V.Puchkov on 9 May 1982. He holds the order of 

the Friendship of Nations and is an honoured master of sport and international 

class master of sport. 

Килиманджаро шыңы  (5985 м), ортада Ю.Голодов / Пик Килиманджаро (5985 м), в центре - Ю.Голодов / 

Kilimanjaro peak (5985 m), in the center - Y.Golodov


Маусым 2013


Tengri range, the most beautiful part of 

it, located in current Kyrgyzstan. Back 

then the four of us: Boris Studenin, Igor 

Kondrashov, Tamara Postnikova (the first 

woman in the USSR to climb Khan-Tengri 

using the most difficult route) and I made 

the second ascent of this 6



route (editor - the highest mountaineering 


1983 was a memorable year for me as in 

one calendar month I managed to climb 4 

peaks over 7,000 m. At that time, nobody 

had ever done anything like that. I climbed 

Lenin Peak (7,134 m) twice, with the 

second ascent done as a timed ascent in 

14 hours. After that I climbed Communism 

and Victory Peaks. It took about 10-12 

years for the next person to be able to do 

that. That person was our famous alpinist 

Denis Urubko who managed to climb 5 

peaks of over 7,000 in 1.5 months.

- Mountain climbing obviously 

makes you mentally stronger. What 

else did it teach you?

- Perseverance and obstinacy: you set 

yourself a goal - go for it. No matter what 

I’ve decided to do, I’ve always seen it 


- What is the current status of 

mountaineering in Kazakhstan?

- It is not the same as it was during the 

Soviet era. There is no official regulatory 

body, and anyone making a climb does 

it off their own back. For example, four 

years ago, a friend and I made 16 ascents. 

Nobody checked us. We reached the 

summit ourselves and came back down 

ourselves. There used to be a system - a 

group goes out on a climb; their departure 

and route are registered, and they are 

registered when they return.

Anyway, I am proud that there are 

some great Kazakhstan mountaineers. For 

example, Denis Urubko became the first 

CIS mountaineer to reach the summit of all 

of the 14 peaks over 8,000 m.

- On 7


 of May Kazakhstani 

people celebrated Defender of the 

Motherland day. Tell us a little about 

your time in the army.

- Honestly, I was only in the military for 

5 or 6 days in total. I did my military service 

in the sport’s troops of the Turkestan 

Military Division where I was engaged in 

training mountain marksmen, teaching 

them the theory and practice of climbing. 

It is also where I became a master of sport. 

After military service, I made climbs as part 

of the Army’s Central Sport Club and the 

Turkestan Military Division for 12 years.

- PetroKazakhstan also pays special 

attention to the development of sport 

both among its employees and those 

just starting out and actual sportsmen 

throughout the country. What would 

you like to wish our readers?

- I am glad that the company follows 

the  healthy body - healthy soul principle 

not only in words, but in deeds. I’ve been 

to some of your sporting events and 

witnessed great team spirit. I would like to 

wish you success, health and each reaching 

their own peaks!

Interesting facts

The Everest summit has been reached 

more than 4,100 times (some people 

have made it more than once). A 

81-year old man and 13-year old child 

have reached the summit, while in 

1998 the first handicapped person 

made the ascent. The first ascent on 

Everest was made on 29 May 1953 by 

Sherpa N.Tenzing and New Zealander 


Every climber’s dream is to conquer 

the “Crown Jewels” of mountaineering 

– reach the summit of all 14 peaks 

over 8,000 m, 10 of which are in the 

Himalayas. The first person to do that 

was an Italian, Reinhold Messner, in 

1986. The first CIS mountaineer to 

achieve the feat was Denis Urubko 

from Kazakhstan.

Монблан шыңы (4706 м), оң жақта - Франция, сол жақта - Италия, артта Швейцария / На вершине Монблан  

(4706 м), справа - Франция, слева - Италия, позади Швейцария / On the top of Mont Blanc (4706 m), 

on the right - France, on the left - Italy, behind Switzerland

Эвересттегі күннің алтын батуы / Золотой закат на Эвересте / Golden sunset on Everest


Маусым 2013      


Any parent would want to see their children become successful, well developed and talented. However, the reality is that parents need to 

make a lot of effort for those dreams to come true. It is true to say that everyone is born with some level of talent, but the most important 

thing is to notice that talent, and maybe more importantly, to start developing it from a young age, and this should be every parent’s task. In 

this issue, in honour of Children’s Day, we will be introducing readers to our employees’ talented children. In this first edition, we will tell you 

a little about the talented youngsters of people working in our upstream division - PetroKazakhstan Kumkol Resources, who have achieved 

some excellent results for their age.

Gabit Nurai, 8 years old 

Father: Gabit Shaimaganbetov, maintenance division senior engineer, PKKR

Nurai’s hobby: rhythmic gymnastics


- І place in the Zhambyl Oblast Open Rhythmic Gymnastics competition (2012)

- ІІ place in the Baikonur Open Rhythmic Gymnastics competition (2012)

- ІІ place at the annual Altyn Alma Gymnastics for All competition in Almaty 


- IV place in the South Kazakhstan Oblast Open in Shymkent (2012)

Nurai: Yasmin and I went to the same Zhuldyz kindergarten since we were 

small. And now we’re in the same rhythmic gymnastics group at Olympic Reserve 

School №1. I’ve been doing gymnastics since I was six, and now Yasmin and I 

have been picked for the Kyzylorda Oblast Syr Suluy rhythmic gymnastics team. 

My trainer is Gulmira Absultan and choreographers Banu Abenova and Aisulu 

Madiyeva, and I really hope that with their help I can achieve great results and take 

part in some top competitions. I would like to be an elegant “swan” and perform at 

the highest level, just so that my parents are proud of me.

What does Nurai want to achieve: When I grow up I want to be absolute champion of Asia, just like Aliya Yusupova.

Yasmin Kadyr, 8 years old

Father: Kanat Kadyrov, translator, PKKR

Yasmin’s hobby: rhythmic gymnastics


- ІІ place in the Baikonur Open Rhythmic Gymnastics 

competition (2012)

- ІІІ place in the Zhambyl Oblast Open Rhythmic Gymnastics 

competition (2012)

Yasmin: Rhythmic gymnastics is one of the most beautiful 

sports. People all over the world love it. However, it’s rather an 

unusual sport for where I live. In 2011, as soon as the rhythmic 

gymnastics class opened, my mother put my name down, and I 

think that it’s only really gymnastics that helps you keep good poise. I really enjoy watching my heroes’ performance - Alina 

Kabayeva, Irina Chashina and Aliya Yusupova’s, and I hope that I will be able to perform as beautifully as them one day.

What does Yasmin want to achieve: My dream is to hold my nation’s flag as Olympic rhythmic gymnastics champion.




Маусым 2013


Diana Zlobina, 11 years old

Grandmother: Elena Kurmanova, Head of statistical reporting and monitoring 

division of Finance Department, PKKR

Diana’s hobby: swimming and music


- silver medal at the Happy Dolphin championships in Petropavlosk in the 12 year old 

category (2013)

- absolute champion of the Akmola Oblast in Kokshetau in the 11 year old category 


- winner of various children’s championships in Almaty.

Diana: I started swimming in June 2010 and currently train at the Aquatic Training 

centre in Almaty with Tatiana Yermakova, a European and World champion. Recently, 

I got my second adult swimming proficiency award. In January 2013, I was asked to 

join the Olympic Training Centre, and in the summer the group and I are travelling to 

America to train.

I enjoy relaxing with my group and with my parents in the mountains, skateboarding, 

playing on my computer and watching television, but unfortunately, I don’t have much free time. I study at the Almaty grammar school 

of art and as well as sport, I play music. At the end of the school year, I have been chosen to play piano at a concert.

What does Diana want to achieve: My trainer is an example to me. I also want to be world champion and dedicate myself to sport.


Kubash Bagdaulet, 9 years old

Mother: Manshuk Baibazarova, finance department senior economist, PKKR

Bagdaulet’s hobby: karate


- І place in the 2


 international karate championship - ASTANA OPEN (2012)

- ІІ place in the Karate Open held by Children-Youth Sport School (2012)

- ІІ place at the Kazakhstan Shito-ryu karate-do Nozawa Cup, ІІ place at the Baikonur 

Shito-ryu karate-do Cup (2012)

- І place at the Kazakhstan Shito-ryu karate-do Championship (2013)

Bagdaulet: My parents used to be in sport; mum practised taekwondo, and dad 

- wrestling. I’ve been doing karate since October 2011. I’m still learning, but I’ve 

already had my first victories. At the start, I just enjoyed going along, but after a while 

I started getting more serious and winning competitions. I’ve won a lot of prizes in a 

few competitions. At my first competition in Baikonur, two months after I’d started 

karate, I won the bronze medal. The last time I won at the Kazakhstan Shito-ryu karate-

do Championship hold recently - in the middle of March in Almaty. I came first, but 

the most important thing is that I won a license to participate in the karate-do World 

Championships in Japan which will take place in Tokyo in September. I hope I can win there as well!

What does Bagdaulet want to achieve: I want to be a policeman so I can arrest criminals and protect people.



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