Military rank - major, served in the
MIA and NSC
- Yuri Fyodorovich, they say
that mountaineering is neither a
profession nor a hobby, but a state of
soul. What first got you interested in
- From one hand you could say it was an
accident. But on the other hand, my family
has always had an affection to mountains.
In 1935, my uncle took part in the first mass
ascent of Peak Komsomol, and in 1939, my
parents ascended it as well. The first time I
went up into the mountains was with my
friends when I was in 9
being in the Large Almaty gorge we made
a note promising to become mountaineers.
That’s how it all started. Actually, of the 13
children on that day, one became a real
mountaineer. It was me. A little bit later I
got a copy of the book Tiger of the Snows
by the first person to climb the Everest
Tenzing Norgay. And in 1960, I started
going up into the mountains to ski, and
I haven’t been able to imagine life since
without them. When I went to college,
I joined the mountaineering group, and
the trainer there happened to be Sarym
Kuderin, my neighbour. His mother was
one of my first teachers. That’s when I
knew it was my fate to choose a sporting
of all, it is very private. Football, tennis,
wrestling and others are spectacular as
they have stadiums and fans. We go up
into the mountains and nobody sees us.
However, the most important thing in
mountaineering is that you are responsible
for your own safety.
- People have been trying to conquer
the Everest for more than 90 years already.
Between the first ascent to the peak on 29
May 1953 and 1982, approximately 111
people managed to reach the top of the
world. Six of them actually made it twice.
In other words, between 1953 and 1982
(including our expedition) on average
no more than 4 people made it to the top
per year. This was the triumph of the first
mountaineering teams. Today, that figure
is about 130-140 people a year, and the
number of people who have reached the
peak has already exceeded 4,100.
The mountain hasn’t become easier and
people haven’t become stronger. They
have gained a lot of experience based
on attempts and errors. The mystery and
obscurity of the mountain have been
unveiled for an average climber. Today’s
equipment and clothing allow a far greater
level of safety and more people to reach
There are a lot of routes up to the
Everest, and I would like to stress the fact
that the route our expedition took was one
of the most difficult. The USSR team made
its unprecedented ascent along the centre
of the south-west wall, putting us on the
map and declaring the victory to the world.
Since we made the summit in 1982, nobody
has used that route. Mountaineers prefer
the prepared, easier routes, where safety
is aided with the help of Sherpas (editor -
Nepalese mountaineers and guides).
Preparation for the 1982 Himalayan
expedition was tough - the selection
process was rigorous, the physical training
gruelling and medical examination quite
serious. Our ascent to the peak started
with us setting up camps and hanging
wall climbing ropes. I can remember every
detail of our climb. It’s as if it was yesterday.
…And then the long-awaited 4 May came
along. We had been setting up camps for
more than 1.5 months and then it was time
to start the ascent. Moskaltsov (editor - one
of the participants of the four-people-team
of those Everest climbers) and I left base
camp to start climbing, while Khomutov
and Puchkov were to follow the next day.
After entering the Khumbu glacier we
climbed in silence, which we decided was
our rule until we pass the most difficult
areas. I remember we reached a place
where they usually put on grapplers (editor
– metal boot attachments used to move
along ice), but I suggested not bothering
for the time being, and climbing higher,
taking them with us. In 30 minutes time
Reaching the top is everybody’s dream. Everyone has their own peak - some of us want
a career, some of us want to be famous, and others want to be the best mum or wife in
the world. Today, we would like to introduce a very interesting person - Yuri Fyodorovich
Golodov - who, in 1982, as part of the first Soviet Himalayan expedition, reached the
highest point on earth - Everest.
EVEREST - LIFE BEFORE AND AFTER
we reached the first lace, and after putting
on the grapplers and starting to climb
we heard a loud noise and saw a massive
avalanche coming down the mountain
face. A huge block of ice had broken off and
hit the exact place where we should have
been putting on the grapplers! We missed
a terrible accident by minutes. We could
have been under those blocks of ice. So,
we were carrying on and Alexey falls into
an ice crack, slips over, loses his balance
and starts to fall. This was where my many
years of mountaineering experience came
in, and I pulled him out of the crevice. I
realised we had lost our only chance to
conquer the Everest. So I called base camp
by radio and called out the medical team to
bring Alexey down. That was when I heard
the head of the team say that tomorrow we
would be trying again, but with a different
Puchkov and I leave base camp for the
Chomolungma. Luckily we missed the
dangerous Khumbu glacier, camps I and II.
The weather turned, and during the second
half of the day it began to snow. However,
our desire to reach the top overcame
the bad Himalayan weather, as we were
aiming to reach the top on Victory Day - 9
May. Meanwhile, the weather was getting
worse and worse, reducing our chances
of reaching the top. On the evening of 7
May, we reached camp III, intending to
reach camp V the next day, without resting
at camp IV. That was our only chance of
reaching the summit on 9 May, but we had
to cover two days’ distance in one day.
The weather had become so bad that
we were told to descend. But we had our
goal in our sights, and we had already gone
through so much, so we couldn’t in being
literally a few metres from the end, to turn
round and go down. In that situation,
ascents were even more hazardous - every
other group had a safety net with the
other groups around, but because of the
bad weather, we were alone. We reported
to the head of our team down there and
received the response “you decide”. So,
without staying at camp IV, we climbed
further and by 23.30 had reached camp
V. We stayed the night, trying to sleep, but
couldn’t as we were continuously thinking
about how to best stay safe and what our
best options were.
Early on 9 May, we left the final camp,
and with our drops of strength, started to
head for the summit. By 11:30 local time,
we had reached the summit! …We had gone
through so much for those 40 minutes on
the Everest, and I personally had trained
20 years in the 4,000 and 5,000 m Zailii
Alatau range, the harsh Khan-Tengri and
the 7,000 m Pamir for that victory!
- Interestingly, people reaching the
summit, don’t tend to feel that elated.
There is the nagging thought, which all
mountaineers have, that getting to the
top is only half of the job. You still have
to get down. Statistically, more than 50%
of all accidents happen on the descent as
people relax; and that’s when tragedies
- We never say “the last day”.
Mountaineers tend to have their lucky
charms or items. I had a checked shirt
that I wore until it fell to pieces and which
became master of sports of alpinism. It
didn’t make it to Everest (laughs).
- You have done a lot of climbs.
What has been the most memorable?
What is in general the most difficult
at reaching the summit?
- I have made it to the top of 25 peaks
over 7,000 m, but about 600 climbs in
total are under my belt. Sometimes, we
even made two ascents in one day when
we were tackling 3,500 or 4,000 m peaks.
These were made during training sessions
for climbers, soldiers, geologists or on
Apart from Everest, I remember my
ascent in 1969 of the south-west Khan-
Yuri Fyodorovich Golodov
Born in 1945 in Przhevalsk (Kyrgyzstan). Graduated from the Kirov Kazakh State
University with a degree in biology and ichthyology.
He started mountaineering in 1962 as part of the mountaineering group at the
Kazakh State University. From 1970, he was a part of the Turkestan Military
Division and the Army’s Central Sport Club sports teams. From 1981, he was an
instructor at the Pamir and Tyan-Shan mountain camps, from 1983 - a trainer
and national judge in mountaineering and rock climbing. He has made dozens
of ascents on 5
category peaks, often as a team leader. He has made 25
ascents on peaks over 7,000 m, including Communism Peak - 6 times, Lenin Peak
- 13 times, Victory Peak, Khan Tengri peak and E.Korzhenevskiy peak - 2 times.
He has participated in joint Soviet-US ascents on Victory Peak in 1985 and Mount
McKinley (Alaska) in 1986. He is a five times winner of the USSR mountaineering
He was a part of the first Soviet Himalayan expedition, reaching the summit of
Everest with V.Khomutov and V.Puchkov on 9 May 1982. He holds the order of
the Friendship of Nations and is an honoured master of sport and international
class master of sport.
Килиманджаро шыңы (5985 м), ортада Ю.Голодов / Пик Килиманджаро (5985 м), в центре - Ю.Голодов /
Kilimanjaro peak (5985 m), in the center - Y.Golodov
Tengri range, the most beautiful part of
then the four of us: Boris Studenin, Igor
Kondrashov, Tamara Postnikova (the first
woman in the USSR to climb Khan-Tengri
using the most difficult route) and I made
the second ascent of this 6
1983 was a memorable year for me as in
one calendar month I managed to climb 4
peaks over 7,000 m. At that time, nobody
had ever done anything like that. I climbed
Lenin Peak (7,134 m) twice, with the
second ascent done as a timed ascent in
14 hours. After that I climbed Communism
and Victory Peaks. It took about 10-12
years for the next person to be able to do
that. That person was our famous alpinist
Denis Urubko who managed to climb 5
peaks of over 7,000 in 1.5 months.
- Perseverance and obstinacy: you set
yourself a goal - go for it. No matter what
I’ve decided to do, I’ve always seen it
- What is the current status of
mountaineering in Kazakhstan?
- It is not the same as it was during the
Soviet era. There is no official regulatory
body, and anyone making a climb does
it off their own back. For example, four
years ago, a friend and I made 16 ascents.
Nobody checked us. We reached the
summit ourselves and came back down
ourselves. There used to be a system - a
group goes out on a climb; their departure
and route are registered, and they are
registered when they return.
Anyway, I am proud that there are
some great Kazakhstan mountaineers. For
example, Denis Urubko became the first
CIS mountaineer to reach the summit of all
of the 14 peaks over 8,000 m.
- On 7
of May Kazakhstani
people celebrated Defender of the
Motherland day. Tell us a little about
your time in the army.
- Honestly, I was only in the military for
5 or 6 days in total. I did my military service
in the sport’s troops of the Turkestan
Military Division where I was engaged in
training mountain marksmen, teaching
them the theory and practice of climbing.
It is also where I became a master of sport.
After military service, I made climbs as part
of the Army’s Central Sport Club and the
Turkestan Military Division for 12 years.
- PetroKazakhstan also pays special
attention to the development of sport
both among its employees and those
just starting out and actual sportsmen
throughout the country. What would
you like to wish our readers?
- I am glad that the company follows
the healthy body - healthy soul principle
not only in words, but in deeds. I’ve been
to some of your sporting events and
witnessed great team spirit. I would like to
wish you success, health and each reaching
their own peaks!
The Everest summit has been reached
more than 4,100 times (some people
have made it more than once). A
81-year old man and 13-year old child
have reached the summit, while in
1998 the first handicapped person
made the ascent. The first ascent on
Everest was made on 29 May 1953 by
Sherpa N.Tenzing and New Zealander
Every climber’s dream is to conquer
the “Crown Jewels” of mountaineering
– reach the summit of all 14 peaks
over 8,000 m, 10 of which are in the
Himalayas. The first person to do that
was an Italian, Reinhold Messner, in
1986. The first CIS mountaineer to
achieve the feat was Denis Urubko
Монблан шыңы (4706 м), оң жақта - Франция, сол жақта - Италия, артта Швейцария / На вершине Монблан
(4706 м), справа - Франция, слева - Италия, позади Швейцария / On the top of Mont Blanc (4706 m),
on the right - France, on the left - Italy, behind Switzerland
Эвересттегі күннің алтын батуы / Золотой закат на Эвересте / Golden sunset on Everest
Any parent would want to see their children become successful, well developed and talented. However, the reality is that parents need to
make a lot of effort for those dreams to come true. It is true to say that everyone is born with some level of talent, but the most important
thing is to notice that talent, and maybe more importantly, to start developing it from a young age, and this should be every parent’s task. In
this issue, in honour of Children’s Day, we will be introducing readers to our employees’ talented children. In this first edition, we will tell you
a little about the talented youngsters of people working in our upstream division - PetroKazakhstan Kumkol Resources, who have achieved
some excellent results for their age.
Gabit Nurai, 8 years old
Father: Gabit Shaimaganbetov, maintenance division senior engineer, PKKR
Nurai’s hobby: rhythmic gymnastics
- І place in the Zhambyl Oblast Open Rhythmic Gymnastics competition (2012)
- ІІ place in the Baikonur Open Rhythmic Gymnastics competition (2012)
- ІІ place at the annual Altyn Alma Gymnastics for All competition in Almaty
- IV place in the South Kazakhstan Oblast Open in Shymkent (2012)
small. And now we’re in the same rhythmic gymnastics group at Olympic Reserve
School №1. I’ve been doing gymnastics since I was six, and now Yasmin and I
have been picked for the Kyzylorda Oblast Syr Suluy rhythmic gymnastics team.
My trainer is Gulmira Absultan and choreographers Banu Abenova and Aisulu
Madiyeva, and I really hope that with their help I can achieve great results and take
part in some top competitions. I would like to be an elegant “swan” and perform at
the highest level, just so that my parents are proud of me.
- ІІ place in the Baikonur Open Rhythmic Gymnastics
- ІІІ place in the Zhambyl Oblast Open Rhythmic Gymnastics
Yasmin: Rhythmic gymnastics is one of the most beautiful
sports. People all over the world love it. However, it’s rather an
unusual sport for where I live. In 2011, as soon as the rhythmic
gymnastics class opened, my mother put my name down, and I
think that it’s only really gymnastics that helps you keep good poise. I really enjoy watching my heroes’ performance - Alina
Kabayeva, Irina Chashina and Aliya Yusupova’s, and I hope that I will be able to perform as beautifully as them one day.
Diana Zlobina, 11 years old
Grandmother: Elena Kurmanova, Head of statistical reporting and monitoring
division of Finance Department, PKKR
- silver medal at the Happy Dolphin championships in Petropavlosk in the 12 year old
- absolute champion of the Akmola Oblast in Kokshetau in the 11 year old category
- winner of various children’s championships in Almaty.
centre in Almaty with Tatiana Yermakova, a European and World champion. Recently,
I got my second adult swimming proficiency award. In January 2013, I was asked to
join the Olympic Training Centre, and in the summer the group and I are travelling to
America to train.
I enjoy relaxing with my group and with my parents in the mountains, skateboarding,
playing on my computer and watching television, but unfortunately, I don’t have much free time. I study at the Almaty grammar school
of art and as well as sport, I play music. At the end of the school year, I have been chosen to play piano at a concert.
- І place in the 2
international karate championship - ASTANA OPEN (2012)
- ІІ place at the Kazakhstan Shito-ryu karate-do Nozawa Cup, ІІ place at the Baikonur
Shito-ryu karate-do Cup (2012)
- І place at the Kazakhstan Shito-ryu karate-do Championship (2013)
- wrestling. I’ve been doing karate since October 2011. I’m still learning, but I’ve
already had my first victories. At the start, I just enjoyed going along, but after a while
I started getting more serious and winning competitions. I’ve won a lot of prizes in a
few competitions. At my first competition in Baikonur, two months after I’d started
karate, I won the bronze medal. The last time I won at the Kazakhstan Shito-ryu karate-
do Championship hold recently - in the middle of March in Almaty. I came first, but
the most important thing is that I won a license to participate in the karate-do World
Championships in Japan which will take place in Tokyo in September. I hope I can win there as well!
What does Bagdaulet want to achieve: I want to be a policeman so I can arrest criminals and protect people.
THE MAIN THING WITH KARATE IS NOT WINNING OR LOSING,
BUT PERFECTING YOUR CHARACTER AND DISPOSITION