МҰНайшы маусым 2013 3 Dear readers and colleagues!
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- - Every sportsperson’s dream is to win Olympic gold and every mountaineer’s dream is to climb the Everest. Despite the fact that
- You were one of the lucky ones who reached the summit. Can you let us know a little about your ascent on
- Reaching the top is everybody’s dream. Everyone has their own peak - some of us want a career, some of us want to be famous, and others want to be the best mum or wife in
- - You had reached the summit. What were your feelings
- - Do mountaineers have any superstitions or rituals they follow before making an ascent
- - You have done a lot of climbs. What has been the most memorable What is in general the most difficult at reaching the summit
- Yuri Fyodorovich Golodov
- - Mountain climbing obviously makes you mentally stronger. What else did it teach you
- - What is the current status of mountaineering in Kazakhstan
- - On 7 th of May Kazakhstani people celebrated Defender of the Motherland day. Tell us a little about
- - PetroKazakhstan also pays special attention to the development of sport both among its employees and those
- Gabit Nurai, 8 years old Father
- What does Nurai want to achieve
- What does Yasmin want to achieve
- Diana’s hobby
- What does Diana want to achieve
- What does Bagdaulet want to achieve
Military Service Military rank - major, served in the MIA and NSC
МҰНАЙШЫ Маусым 2013 59
- From one hand you could say it was an accident. But on the other hand, my family has always had an affection to mountains. In 1935, my uncle took part in the first mass ascent of Peak Komsomol, and in 1939, my parents ascended it as well. The first time I went up into the mountains was with my friends when I was in 9 th
grade, and while being in the Large Almaty gorge we made a note promising to become mountaineers. That’s how it all started. Actually, of the 13 children on that day, one became a real mountaineer. It was me. A little bit later I got a copy of the book Tiger of the Snows by the first person to climb the Everest Tenzing Norgay. And in 1960, I started going up into the mountains to ski, and I haven’t been able to imagine life since without them. When I went to college, I joined the mountaineering group, and the trainer there happened to be Sarym Kuderin, my neighbour. His mother was one of my first teachers. That’s when I knew it was my fate to choose a sporting life.
Mountaineering is a unique sport. First of all, it is very private. Football, tennis, wrestling and others are spectacular as they have stadiums and fans. We go up into the mountains and nobody sees us. However, the most important thing in mountaineering is that you are responsible for your own safety. - Every sportsperson’s dream is to win Olympic gold and every mountaineer’s dream is to climb the Everest. Despite the fact that roughly 200 people have died trying to climb the mountain, every year many people still apply to climb it. You were one of the lucky ones who reached the summit. Can you let us know a little about your ascent on the Chomolungma and what, in your opinion, is its attractiveness? - People have been trying to conquer the Everest for more than 90 years already. Between the first ascent to the peak on 29 May 1953 and 1982, approximately 111 people managed to reach the top of the world. Six of them actually made it twice. In other words, between 1953 and 1982 (including our expedition) on average no more than 4 people made it to the top per year. This was the triumph of the first mountaineering teams. Today, that figure is about 130-140 people a year, and the number of people who have reached the peak has already exceeded 4,100. The mountain hasn’t become easier and people haven’t become stronger. They have gained a lot of experience based on attempts and errors. The mystery and obscurity of the mountain have been unveiled for an average climber. Today’s equipment and clothing allow a far greater level of safety and more people to reach the summit. There are a lot of routes up to the Everest, and I would like to stress the fact that the route our expedition took was one of the most difficult. The USSR team made its unprecedented ascent along the centre of the south-west wall, putting us on the map and declaring the victory to the world. Since we made the summit in 1982, nobody has used that route. Mountaineers prefer the prepared, easier routes, where safety is aided with the help of Sherpas (editor - Nepalese mountaineers and guides). Preparation for the 1982 Himalayan expedition was tough - the selection process was rigorous, the physical training gruelling and medical examination quite serious. Our ascent to the peak started with us setting up camps and hanging wall climbing ropes. I can remember every detail of our climb. It’s as if it was yesterday. …And then the long-awaited 4 May came along. We had been setting up camps for more than 1.5 months and then it was time to start the ascent. Moskaltsov (editor - one of the participants of the four-people-team of those Everest climbers) and I left base camp to start climbing, while Khomutov and Puchkov were to follow the next day. After entering the Khumbu glacier we climbed in silence, which we decided was our rule until we pass the most difficult areas. I remember we reached a place where they usually put on grapplers (editor – metal boot attachments used to move along ice), but I suggested not bothering for the time being, and climbing higher, taking them with us. In 30 minutes time
60 Маусым 2013 МҰНАЙШЫ we reached the first lace, and after putting on the grapplers and starting to climb we heard a loud noise and saw a massive avalanche coming down the mountain face. A huge block of ice had broken off and hit the exact place where we should have been putting on the grapplers! We missed a terrible accident by minutes. We could have been under those blocks of ice. So, we were carrying on and Alexey falls into an ice crack, slips over, loses his balance and starts to fall. This was where my many years of mountaineering experience came in, and I pulled him out of the crevice. I realised we had lost our only chance to conquer the Everest. So I called base camp by radio and called out the medical team to bring Alexey down. That was when I heard the head of the team say that tomorrow we would be trying again, but with a different team.
On the morning of 5 May, Khomutov, Puchkov and I leave base camp for the Chomolungma. Luckily we missed the dangerous Khumbu glacier, camps I and II. The weather turned, and during the second half of the day it began to snow. However, our desire to reach the top overcame the bad Himalayan weather, as we were aiming to reach the top on Victory Day - 9 May. Meanwhile, the weather was getting worse and worse, reducing our chances of reaching the top. On the evening of 7 May, we reached camp III, intending to reach camp V the next day, without resting at camp IV. That was our only chance of reaching the summit on 9 May, but we had to cover two days’ distance in one day. The weather had become so bad that we were told to descend. But we had our goal in our sights, and we had already gone through so much, so we couldn’t in being literally a few metres from the end, to turn round and go down. In that situation, ascents were even more hazardous - every other group had a safety net with the other groups around, but because of the bad weather, we were alone. We reported to the head of our team down there and received the response “you decide”. So, without staying at camp IV, we climbed further and by 23.30 had reached camp V. We stayed the night, trying to sleep, but couldn’t as we were continuously thinking about how to best stay safe and what our best options were. Early on 9 May, we left the final camp, and with our drops of strength, started to head for the summit. By 11:30 local time, we had reached the summit! …We had gone through so much for those 40 minutes on the Everest, and I personally had trained 20 years in the 4,000 and 5,000 m Zailii Alatau range, the harsh Khan-Tengri and the 7,000 m Pamir for that victory! - You had reached the summit. What were your feelings? - Interestingly, people reaching the summit, don’t tend to feel that elated. There is the nagging thought, which all mountaineers have, that getting to the top is only half of the job. You still have to get down. Statistically, more than 50% of all accidents happen on the descent as people relax; and that’s when tragedies happen.
- Do mountaineers have any superstitions or rituals they follow before making an ascent? - We never say “the last day”. Mountaineers tend to have their lucky charms or items. I had a checked shirt that I wore until it fell to pieces and which became master of sports of alpinism. It didn’t make it to Everest (laughs).
- I have made it to the top of 25 peaks over 7,000 m, but about 600 climbs in total are under my belt. Sometimes, we even made two ascents in one day when we were tackling 3,500 or 4,000 m peaks. These were made during training sessions for climbers, soldiers, geologists or on topographic expeditions. Apart from Everest, I remember my ascent in 1969 of the south-west Khan-
Born in 1945 in Przhevalsk (Kyrgyzstan). Graduated from the Kirov Kazakh State University with a degree in biology and ichthyology. He started mountaineering in 1962 as part of the mountaineering group at the Kazakh State University. From 1970, he was a part of the Turkestan Military Division and the Army’s Central Sport Club sports teams. From 1981, he was an instructor at the Pamir and Tyan-Shan mountain camps, from 1983 - a trainer and national judge in mountaineering and rock climbing. He has made dozens of ascents on 5 th and 6 th category peaks, often as a team leader. He has made 25 ascents on peaks over 7,000 m, including Communism Peak - 6 times, Lenin Peak - 13 times, Victory Peak, Khan Tengri peak and E.Korzhenevskiy peak - 2 times. He has participated in joint Soviet-US ascents on Victory Peak in 1985 and Mount McKinley (Alaska) in 1986. He is a five times winner of the USSR mountaineering championship. He was a part of the first Soviet Himalayan expedition, reaching the summit of Everest with V.Khomutov and V.Puchkov on 9 May 1982. He holds the order of the Friendship of Nations and is an honoured master of sport and international class master of sport. Килиманджаро шыңы (5985 м), ортада Ю.Голодов / Пик Килиманджаро (5985 м), в центре - Ю.Голодов / Kilimanjaro peak (5985 m), in the center - Y.Golodov
МҰНАЙШЫ Маусым 2013 61 Tengri range, the most beautiful part of it, located in current Kyrgyzstan. Back then the four of us: Boris Studenin, Igor Kondrashov, Tamara Postnikova (the first woman in the USSR to climb Khan-Tengri using the most difficult route) and I made the second ascent of this 6 th category route (editor - the highest mountaineering category). 1983 was a memorable year for me as in one calendar month I managed to climb 4 peaks over 7,000 m. At that time, nobody had ever done anything like that. I climbed Lenin Peak (7,134 m) twice, with the second ascent done as a timed ascent in 14 hours. After that I climbed Communism and Victory Peaks. It took about 10-12 years for the next person to be able to do that. That person was our famous alpinist Denis Urubko who managed to climb 5 peaks of over 7,000 in 1.5 months. - Mountain climbing obviously makes you mentally stronger. What else did it teach you? - Perseverance and obstinacy: you set yourself a goal - go for it. No matter what I’ve decided to do, I’ve always seen it through.
- It is not the same as it was during the Soviet era. There is no official regulatory body, and anyone making a climb does it off their own back. For example, four years ago, a friend and I made 16 ascents. Nobody checked us. We reached the summit ourselves and came back down ourselves. There used to be a system - a group goes out on a climb; their departure and route are registered, and they are registered when they return. Anyway, I am proud that there are some great Kazakhstan mountaineers. For example, Denis Urubko became the first CIS mountaineer to reach the summit of all of the 14 peaks over 8,000 m.
- Honestly, I was only in the military for 5 or 6 days in total. I did my military service in the sport’s troops of the Turkestan Military Division where I was engaged in training mountain marksmen, teaching them the theory and practice of climbing. It is also where I became a master of sport. After military service, I made climbs as part of the Army’s Central Sport Club and the Turkestan Military Division for 12 years.
- I am glad that the company follows the healthy body - healthy soul principle not only in words, but in deeds. I’ve been to some of your sporting events and witnessed great team spirit. I would like to wish you success, health and each reaching their own peaks! Interesting facts The Everest summit has been reached more than 4,100 times (some people have made it more than once). A 81-year old man and 13-year old child have reached the summit, while in 1998 the first handicapped person made the ascent. The first ascent on Everest was made on 29 May 1953 by Sherpa N.Tenzing and New Zealander E.Hillary. Every climber’s dream is to conquer the “Crown Jewels” of mountaineering – reach the summit of all 14 peaks over 8,000 m, 10 of which are in the Himalayas. The first person to do that was an Italian, Reinhold Messner, in 1986. The first CIS mountaineer to achieve the feat was Denis Urubko from Kazakhstan. Монблан шыңы (4706 м), оң жақта - Франция, сол жақта - Италия, артта Швейцария / На вершине Монблан (4706 м), справа - Франция, слева - Италия, позади Швейцария / On the top of Mont Blanc (4706 m), on the right - France, on the left - Italy, behind Switzerland Эвересттегі күннің алтын батуы / Золотой закат на Эвересте / Golden sunset on Everest 62 Маусым 2013 МҰНАЙШЫ Any parent would want to see their children become successful, well developed and talented. However, the reality is that parents need to make a lot of effort for those dreams to come true. It is true to say that everyone is born with some level of talent, but the most important thing is to notice that talent, and maybe more importantly, to start developing it from a young age, and this should be every parent’s task. In this issue, in honour of Children’s Day, we will be introducing readers to our employees’ talented children. In this first edition, we will tell you a little about the talented youngsters of people working in our upstream division - PetroKazakhstan Kumkol Resources, who have achieved some excellent results for their age.
- І place in the Zhambyl Oblast Open Rhythmic Gymnastics competition (2012) - ІІ place in the Baikonur Open Rhythmic Gymnastics competition (2012) - ІІ place at the annual Altyn Alma Gymnastics for All competition in Almaty (2012) - IV place in the South Kazakhstan Oblast Open in Shymkent (2012) Nurai: Yasmin and I went to the same Zhuldyz kindergarten since we were small. And now we’re in the same rhythmic gymnastics group at Olympic Reserve School №1. I’ve been doing gymnastics since I was six, and now Yasmin and I have been picked for the Kyzylorda Oblast Syr Suluy rhythmic gymnastics team. My trainer is Gulmira Absultan and choreographers Banu Abenova and Aisulu Madiyeva, and I really hope that with their help I can achieve great results and take part in some top competitions. I would like to be an elegant “swan” and perform at the highest level, just so that my parents are proud of me. What does Nurai want to achieve: When I grow up I want to be absolute champion of Asia, just like Aliya Yusupova. Yasmin Kadyr, 8 years old Father: Kanat Kadyrov, translator, PKKR Yasmin’s hobby: rhythmic gymnastics Awards: - ІІ place in the Baikonur Open Rhythmic Gymnastics competition (2012) - ІІІ place in the Zhambyl Oblast Open Rhythmic Gymnastics competition (2012)
sports. People all over the world love it. However, it’s rather an unusual sport for where I live. In 2011, as soon as the rhythmic gymnastics class opened, my mother put my name down, and I think that it’s only really gymnastics that helps you keep good poise. I really enjoy watching my heroes’ performance - Alina Kabayeva, Irina Chashina and Aliya Yusupova’s, and I hope that I will be able to perform as beautifully as them one day. What does Yasmin want to achieve: My dream is to hold my nation’s flag as Olympic rhythmic gymnastics champion. TALENTED CHILDREN LITTLE GRACE LADIES МҰНАЙШЫ Маусым 2013 63
division of Finance Department, PKKR Diana’s hobby: swimming and music Awards: - silver medal at the Happy Dolphin championships in Petropavlosk in the 12 year old category (2013) - absolute champion of the Akmola Oblast in Kokshetau in the 11 year old category (2013) - winner of various children’s championships in Almaty. Diana: I started swimming in June 2010 and currently train at the Aquatic Training centre in Almaty with Tatiana Yermakova, a European and World champion. Recently, I got my second adult swimming proficiency award. In January 2013, I was asked to join the Olympic Training Centre, and in the summer the group and I are travelling to America to train. I enjoy relaxing with my group and with my parents in the mountains, skateboarding, playing on my computer and watching television, but unfortunately, I don’t have much free time. I study at the Almaty grammar school of art and as well as sport, I play music. At the end of the school year, I have been chosen to play piano at a concert. What does Diana want to achieve: My trainer is an example to me. I also want to be world champion and dedicate myself to sport. THE HAPPY DOLPHIN Kubash Bagdaulet, 9 years old Mother: Manshuk Baibazarova, finance department senior economist, PKKR Bagdaulet’s hobby: karate Awards: - І place in the 2 nd international karate championship - ASTANA OPEN (2012) - ІІ place in the Karate Open held by Children-Youth Sport School (2012) - ІІ place at the Kazakhstan Shito-ryu karate-do Nozawa Cup, ІІ place at the Baikonur Shito-ryu karate-do Cup (2012) - І place at the Kazakhstan Shito-ryu karate-do Championship (2013) Bagdaulet: My parents used to be in sport; mum practised taekwondo, and dad - wrestling. I’ve been doing karate since October 2011. I’m still learning, but I’ve already had my first victories. At the start, I just enjoyed going along, but after a while I started getting more serious and winning competitions. I’ve won a lot of prizes in a few competitions. At my first competition in Baikonur, two months after I’d started karate, I won the bronze medal. The last time I won at the Kazakhstan Shito-ryu karate- do Championship hold recently - in the middle of March in Almaty. I came first, but the most important thing is that I won a license to participate in the karate-do World Championships in Japan which will take place in Tokyo in September. I hope I can win there as well!
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